Frizeriţa de weekend


„Socoteala de acasă nu se potriveşte cu cea din târg.”

 

E foarte prietenos tipu’ ăsta care stă în faţa hotelului nostru, în pantaloni scurţi şi tricou, cu genunchii săi roz şi o rachetă de tenis. Aşteaptă să-i vină maşina.  Ne uităm la cerul albastru şi vorbim despre vremea de aici, din Ciad – iar e cald, 35ºC la ora 8.45 dimineaţa. Tipul îmi spune că va fi şi mai cald în câteva săptămâni. Pare a fi   supărat şi agitat. Se uită la ceas şi propune să ne întâlnim la o bere pe terasa hotelului. Întreabă numărul camerei în care stau, apoi îmi spune: „Hei, suntem vecini!” Se urcă într-un jeep prafuit. Îl aud certându-se cu şoferul său: Cum reusesti să întârzii în fiecare  sâmbată?

În ce mă priveşte, eu mă duc să mă tund. Stau şi aştept să vină să mă ia cineva, urmărind între timp şopârlele care fac flotări în iarba uscată. Ele se holbează la mine: care e problema ta? E o întrebare corectă. Problema mea e securitatea: oriunde mă duc, am un şofer oficial care mă duce din punctul A în punctul B. Chiar şi pentru o tunsoare, într-o frizerie aflată la 300 m distanţă. In regula numai ca soferul are o jumătate de oră întârziere.

Eventual apare si pornim cu maşina în josul şoselei principale.  E plin de maşini care claxonează şi copii zâmbitori, dar frizeria este închisă, aşa că ne învârtim în zonă, în căutarea unei alternative. Văd un salon care pare OK. Şoferul meu parchează maşina, îşi dă scaunul pe spate şi îşi trage şapca peste ochi.

Doamna impunatoare din salon lasă deoparte revista şi spune: „Bună dimineaţa! Tuns? Nici o problemă, sus pe scaun, eşti primul meu client.” Mă aşez pe scaun şi remarc că e un pic cam prăfuit. Observ şi că nu ştie cum să-mi lege pelerina în jurul umerilor, în timp ce ea se uită atent la butoanele de pe maşina de tuns. Atunci când o bagă în priză, aceasta huruie ca o maşină stricată de tuns gazonul. Îmi umblă cu ea pe cap, aruncând păr în toate părţile. „Scuze,” spune ea, „nu ştiu unde au pus cealaltă maşină care merge mai bine.” Îi prind privirea în oglindă şi întreb: „Au pus… cine?’

Ea îmi verifică capul şi spune: „Foştii proprietari. Abia am preluat afacerea.”

Ne punem la taclale. Ella e de peste graniţa, din Camerun. Mă întreabă ce fac în Ciad. Îi spun că sunt consultant media şi pare satisfăcută de răspuns. Nu-i spun că  lucrez cu jurnaliştii din partea locului a căror meserie este să realizeze programe radio care să contracareze propaganda radicală islamistă şi să promoveze toleranţa religioasă. Nu-i spun nici că oamenii sunt îngrijoraţi de miile de tineri din Ciad care nu au de muncă şi sunt plictisiţi, dezamăgiţi şi vulnerabili în faţa influenţei preoţilor charismatici, luand deseori calea către Pakistan. Nu spun că guvernul din Ciad este îngrijorat de ideologia extremistă. Pentru că după 15 minute în compania maşinii de tuns gazonul, sunt îngrijorat la rândul meu de părul din cap. Arată ca si cum un câine tocmai s-a plictisit să-l molfăie. Frizeriţa scoate limba prin coltul gurii o gumă de mestecat roz în timp ce lucrează. Fără sa apar nepoliticos, o întreb unde s-a specializat în domeniu. Aruncă din nou o privire maşinii de tuns şi-mi spune: „Nu am pregătire. Şi ştii ce? Cred că am nevoie de ochelari.”

Mă holbez la ea în oglindă. „Dar eşti frizeriţă, nu-i aşa?”

Ea ridică din umeri. „Eu? Nu, eu fac manichiură şi pedichiură. Vrei să-ţi fac şi ţie? Costă numai 50 $.”

„Dar pe firma de la intrare scrie frizer. Ai spus că sunt primul tău client pe ziua de azi.”

„E o firmă veche. Am vrut să spun că eşti primul meu client în general. Oricum, de tuns n-am mai tuns pe nimeni niciodată.”

Nu-mi vine să cred ce-mi aud urechile. Nu e de mirare că freza mea  seamănă acum cu un covor vechi. Ea se uită inspre strada aglomerată şi spune: „Ştii vreun oftalmolog în zonă?”

O întreb pe Ella dacă ştie unde au pus foştii proprietari maşina de tuns cea bună. Ea spune: „Bună idee, ma duc s-o caut din nou.” Mă lasă să stau în scaunul plin de praf, cu pelerina atârnând. Stau în linişte, uitându-mă lung la propria reflecţie din oglinda spartă. Un puşti bate la geam: Ça va?

În dimineaţa următoare, sunt în camera de hotel când Benjamin bate la uşă. Lucrează la curăţenie, dar este şi muzician în devenire. Benjamin cântă într-o formaţie la biserică şi, o dată pe săptămână, îi dau scurte lecţii de chitară. El face progrese. Prietenii lui sunt invidioşi. Îi arăt notele pentru blues ca să repete. La jumătatea exerciţiului, el se uită la mine şi îmi spune: „Domnule Mike, ai o freză haioasă.” Îi spun despre Ella, iar el replică: „Ştii, camerunezii ăştia…”

Mai târziu, mă întâlnesc cu jucătorul de tenis prietenos, pe terasă. Numele lui e Jim. Lucrează pentru o ambasadă, cheltuieşte o avere construind machete de aeroplane şi e celibatar, ceea ce nu mă surprinde. Ceea ce mă surprinde este faptul că Jim locuieşte în camera 107 a hotelului nostru, din anul 2007. Mă holbez la el şi spun: „4 ani, vorbeşti serios?” El se uită la capul meu şi răspunde: „Mult mai serios decât frizerul care te-a tuns în halul ăsta.” Aşa că îl întreb pe Jim dacă ştie vreo frizerie bună sau un oftalmolog bun.

 

(First published in FHM Romania. Appears here by permission of S.C. Sanoma Hearst Romania SRL)

 

Hair today, gone tomorrow


He’s very friendly, the man standing outside our hotel in shorts and polo shirt, with pink knees and a tennis racquet. He’s waiting for his ride. We look at the blue sky and chat about the weather here in Chad – it’s warm again, 35C at 08.45 am. He reckons it will be even hotter in a few weeks. He sounds fed up, restless.

He checks his watch and suggests we should have a beer sometime, get together on the hotel terrace. He asks my room number then says: “Hey neighbour, I’m right next door!”

He climbs into a dusty jeep. I can hear him complaining to his driver. How come you’re late, every Saturday?

As for me, I’m going to get a haircut. I stand and wait for my lift, watching lizards doing push-ups in dry grass.  They stare back: what’s your problem? It’s a fair question. My problem is security: every place I go, I’m assigned an official driver who takes me from A to B. Even for a haircut, 300m down the road. Fair enough, except when he’s half an hour late.

Eventually he turns up we drive down the main street. It’s full of honking cars and grinning kids but the salon is closed so we cruise around for an alternative. I spot one that looks OK. My driver parks the car, reclines his seat and pulls his baseball cap over his eyes.

The large African lady in the salon puts down her magazine and says: “Good morning! Haircut? No problem, hop in the chair, you’re my first customer.”

I hop in the chair and notice it’s a bit dusty. I also notice she doesn’t know how to tie the shawl around my shoulders and she squints at the buttons on her electric clipper. It sounds like a broken lawn mower when she plugs it in. She runs it over my head, yanking my hair out in clumps.

“Sorry,” she says, “I don’t know where they put the best clipper.”

I catch her eye in the mirror. “They?”

She checks my head and says: “The previous owners. I just took over the business.”

We get chatting. Ella is from just across the border in Cameroon. She asks me what I’m doing in Chad. I tell her I’m a media consultant, and she seems satisfied. I don’t tell her I am mentoring local journalists whose job is to produce and distribute radio programs that will counteract radical Islamist propaganda and promote religious tolerance. I don’t tell her people are worried about the thousands of unemployed young Chadian men who are bored and disenchanted and vulnerable to the influence of charismatic preachers and sometimes drift off to Pakistan. I don’t say the Chadian government is worried about extremist ideology. Because after fifteen minutes of the lawn mower, right now I’m worried about my hair. It looks like a dog got bored chewing it.

The hairdresser pokes her tongue from the side of her mouth like pink bubble gum, while she works. I ask, politely, where she trained. She squints at her clipper again and says:

“I’m not trained. You know what? I think maybe I need spectacles.”

I stare at her in the mirror. “But you are a hairdresser, right?”

She shrugs. “Me? No, I do manicures and pedicures. Would you like one? It’s only $50.”

“But your sign outside says hairdresser. You said I was your first customer today.”

“That’s an old sign. I meant you’re my first customer ever. For a haircut, anyway.”

I look at Ella. I look in the cracked mirror. No wonder my head resembles some old carpet. Ella squints outside towards the busy street and says: “Do you know where there’s an optician?”

I ask Ella if she knows where the previous owners put the best clipper. She says: “Good idea, I’ll have another look.”

She leaves me sitting in the dusty chair with my shawl hanging. I sit in silence, gazing at my reflection. A kid taps on the window: Ca va?

Next morning, I’m my hotel room when Benjamin knocks. He works here as a cleaner, but he’s also a budding musician. Benjamin plays in a church band and once a week, I give him a short lesson on my guitar.  He’s making progress. His friends are jealous. I show him the blues scale so he can practise. Halfway through the exercise he looks at me and says:

“Mister Mike, you have a funny haircut.” I tell him about Ella and he says: “You know, those Cameroonians…”

Later, I meet the friendly tennis player on the terrace. His name is Jim. He works for an embassy, spends a fortune building model aeroplanes and is single, which doesn’t surprise me. What does surprise me is the fact that Jim has been living in room 107 of our hotel since 2007. I gawk at him and say: “Four years, are you serious?”

He looks at my head and says: “More serious than your barber.”

So I ask Jim if he knows of a good salon, or a good optician.

***

(First published in FHM Romania, June 2011. Republished by permission of S.C. Sanoma Hearst Romania SRL)

No Smoke Without Fire



It’s the little things we remember


It’s a cold winter’s night at Anfield, home of Liverpool Football Club. My Dad and I watch the match from our seats high in the famous stadium. It’s a treat for his 70th birthday.

We hold our red and white scarves up and sing the songs we know so well. We swap opinions about who is playing well and who is totally useless. Liverpool win and Sheffield lose. It’s a good game, but not memorable, except for two minor incidents afterwards.

First, as we’re leaving the stadium, walking down steep concrete steps, my dad loses his footing. He wobbles like he is drunk, spins on his heel and grabs the handrail. We laugh and think no more about it. Second, in the cobbled streets outside, among fans and street hawkers, Dad forgets which way is home. I point to the right but he looks puzzled. I ask him if he is drunk. He laughs. We had only a cup of tea, at halftime.

“Better hurry or we’ll miss the bus,” he says and walks on, tying his scarf. He has no idea that this is the beginning of the end. Me neither.

In the queue for the bus a guy in a flat cap is smoking a roll-up cigarette. The smell reminds me of being a kid, watching my Dad roll a cigarette in thin white paper. He would pop the lid on his shiny green and gold tin, then pluck some tobacco and tease it into shape with nimble fingers, like a magician.

He would puff the fragrant smoke, give me a wink and say: “Don’t smoke, you’ll end up in a box.”

But he seemed to like smoking. And drawing. Sometimes he would sketch a funny cartoon on an old envelope. I would watch the pencil, waiting to see what came out of the end: usually some fat lady with big boobs complaining to her stupid husband, or a dog talking to a deaf cat. Dad was good at that stuff. He could make a joke out of anything, although he usually seemed a bit fed up with life, probably due to lack of sleep.

Whenever his tobacco tin was empty, he would add it to his growing collection in our garden shed. That shed was his private territory and always a bit of a mess even though he insisted there was a system. He would point at the shelf and say:

“For example, that big tin is for my nails, that big tin of for my screws, and that little tin is for my brain.” I would look at his finger. The tip was missing, from an accident.

“When the bandages came off, it hurt like Billy O,” he would say. I had no idea who Billy O was. But I knew I was Mikey O and Dad was Gerry O.

He worked in a factory, something to do with copper wire and cables. He did the night shift for many years. Mum would make his sandwiches before left the house. Dad would say cheese-please-Louise, even though her name was Veronica. He would take his bicycle from the shed. I would stand at the gate and on starry nights he would show me The Great Bear. Then he would ride away and I would watch his little red light until it disappeared. Next morning he would come home in a grumpy mood with eyes like oyster shells. He would sleep until afternoon, but it was never enough.

Sometimes, we would go shopping together. One day he stopped outside the opticians and said: watch this, Mikey. He groped the window, groped the door handle and went inside with his eyes all screwed up like he was blind and asked the man in the white coat: Is this the opticians?

After he retired Dad found a part-time gardening job. He liked pruning bushes. He should have been a barber. He could make your garden look like a skinhead in ten minutes.

He liked football too. That’s why I took him to Anfield.

A few weeks after the Sheffield game he fell off his bike and bashed his head. Sometimes he would wobble around the house like he was drunk. On milky tea?

My sister took him for a chat with a doctor. When Dad emerged half an hour later he said: “Apparently I’m going to die. But who isn’t?”

He had been diagnosed with Motor Neurone Disease, but was spared the worst because, a few months later, he tripped on a carpet at home and bashed his head again, badly this time. An ambulance took him to hospital where he survived a heart attack but not pneumonia.

My brother was with him at the end. Dad scribbled a last request on a scrap of paper – want my radio – and died listening to a Liverpool match on his headphones.

I left Liverpool many years ago and these days my base is rural Romania. I recently received some of Dad’s ashes in one of his old tobacco boxes and last week, at midnight, I scattered them on a hill in Transylvania. The wind blew the fine grey powder all over me, as if Dad was having a final joke. Or maybe he was just saying: I’m with you.

It was a starry night, so I looked up at the Great Bear, and tried not to cry.

(This story was first published in FHM Romania, July 2011, and reappears here with permission of S.C. Sanoma Hearst Romania SRL.)